Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa, Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion, , Trim was largely concentrated on the bodice during the early s, having contrasting fabric, lace, braids, puffs, frills, gathers, tucks, pleats, and fancy collars. By , the bodice trim continued down the skirt, with sweeping curves and scallops of braid or lace sewn diagonally. Corsets were loosened in the s, and the shirtwaist or blouse, in white, pastels, deep colors, or stripes, were popular.
These were generally worn with darker skirts. The bodice was cut extremely narrow in the shoulders with thick gathers of pleats and full over the bosom. The bust line was quite low by The women in the images below all wear separate skirts and blouses. The blouses are loose in the bosom with gathers and pleats down the front.
Severa The back of the shirtwaist was usually shorter than the front, seamed down the back, and fitted. Collars were usually quite high and often very stiff and straight. Severa For active wear, women donned white or navy blue tops with sailor-like braid on a deep square sailor collar and long, black silk sailor ties. The sleeves are one of the most distinguishing features of the s costume. During the early years of the decade, skirts were fuller at the hem. An overskirt draped to an apron front, and a full, flounced underskirt and full petticoats threw out the bottom of the skirt.
Skirts often fell in multiple layers of ruffles and flounces. An overskirt was often pulled up at the sides to reveal the underskirt. Throughout the decade, many skirts had small trains. Notice the narrow skirts with full hems in the images below. The narrower cut became more fashionable toward the end of the decade. Severa This more conservative dress style still demonstrates the overskirt with the fuller underskirt, and one can see the material gathered at the back of the skirt.
Severa Notice the layers of excessive ruffles and flounces of the skirts in the images below. Severa The girls in the images below have pulled their skirts up at the sides to reveal the flounced underskirt. Severa During the first four years of the decade, the shortwaisted, fitted, basque bodice a fitted bodice with a crisp flare over the hips was quite fashionable.
The lower back was often trimmed with deep pleats and bows. The shorter bodice is worn by the young women in the image below. Collars and cuffs became quite frilly and lacy. Notice the tight fitting waist and flare over the hips. Severa Notice the very high waist of the bodice in the image below. Although the woman is sitting, it is possible to see the high bustle at the back end of her dress.
Severa The woman below wears the shortwaisted basque bodice with trim at the back. Severa By , the waistlines became longer.
Dating Women's Clothing in Photographs 1840-1914
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Extremely high necklines for daywear, butterflies and floral wreaths. Very narrow sleeves and high necklines. Layered and draped skirts with apron fronts and trained backs. Dresses for evening had elbow-length sleeves. Gone were the bustles and overly-puffed sleeves. Dresses for evening had elbow-length dating womens clothing. The first appearance of the cuirass dating womens clothing appeared during the late s, with slimming silhouettes at the hip. The hourglass revival from the s also began to reemerge. State Library Victoria Collections via Compfight cc What to look for: Day bodices with high necklines, tight bodices and flat-front skirts. Layered and draped skirts with apron fronts and trained backs. Extremely high necklines for daywear, plus necklines with square yoke vegan dating new york city. Sleeves that are tighter at the lower part of the arm and puffed on the upper part. American Fashion in the 20th Century What to look for: Fullness of skirts shown below the knee only. Evening dresses with three-quarter length dating womens clothing and low, the middle class and shop girls.
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